Best Honda Accord Tow Bar Braking Systems

I wouldn't use anything else! Once this system is installed it's literally plug-and-play. Nothing to move or install into the car, each time you tow. Just plug it into the coach's air break system and you're done. Install video from etrailer made it even easier to complete. You do need a bit of mechanical guidance/assistance as you're connecting to both your vehicles and coaches breaking system but it has worked flawlessly for over 11,000 miles and in some pretty intense traffic.

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AF1 is amazing so far. I did the installation by myself. I have a 2014 Honda CR-V and bought it for towing. Watching the video helped me through it. The car installation portion was pretty straight forward. The video is better than the instructions overall, but I read through the entire instructions before beginning. I was able to install the RV tank without putting the rig on a lift. Depending on how big you are and flexibility, it can be done with the RV on the ground...it just takes longer. Also, I would recommend knowing where you are going to mount your RV tank. I mounted the tank near the rear and didn’t have enough brake tube after doing the car. Picked up an extra 20 ft at Autozone or order the tube with etrailer. The customer service center is very helpful too. Many thanks to Mariah for the outstanding assistance. Finally, I would say that if you order the brackets to mount the emergency brake away for your car, you may have to cut them down with a grinder. It is so much nicer not putting the brake buddy in the car now. Looking forward to enjoying it on trips. I drove the rig about 20 miles yesterday, and the light came on and I honestly couldn’t tell the car was back there other than looking in the video and seeing the light on the car during braking. Highly recommend this unit.

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The braking system and the lights are working, one year after I bought them. However, I am towing a 2016 Keep Patriot, and about 2_500 miles after install, the system started making an annoying clicking noise when I enter the Patriot, which stops after about 10 seconds and then starts up again, usually a minute or so later, for another 10 or 15 seconds. etrailer first said that they had never heard of.such a thing, then said that there are otherwise comments for Keep Patriot owners on forums. Still have no.fix. Also, at first I did not know that to store the tow bar, it must be pulled up so that the post fitting can moe to the position where it fits into the hole.in the smaii yellow bracket, which works well when used correctly. And store the coiled.wide in your tower vehicle.to prevent corrosion which will interfere with its function.

Invisibrake on a 2014 Honda CRV I’ve been a carpenter all my life and recently finished building a custom car. After Watching the etrailer video (multiple times) it appeared to be a fairly simple installation, not so much, as getting up under the dash is very tight, mounting locations and access points are different and not much working room under dash. 1. It appears the length of the cable and air cylinder are shorter than when the video was made, so an alternate location for the cable clamp is needed. The cable direction needed to be at a 90’ angle to the pedal. . Removing all the carpet and insulation was a PIA to get a direct connection to metal. The cylinder mounted a few inches closer than the video showed and I used two clamps to attach it. The mounting point on the cable clamp ending up being behind the wheel well, so I used a couple of stainless steel bolts for attachment. 2. The hole location into the firewall was very difficult to get to. I was only able to drill a 5/8” hole. I couldn’t get my step bit in there and the brake lines are on the outside and didn’t want to risk damaging them. I just ran the power wires and vacuum line through this hole. I drilled another 3/4” hole in the floor at the back of the cylinder. I ran the plug for brake away and the lighting wires under the body and followed the lighting wires from the back to front. Covering all wires in a plastic loom 3. The plastic molding pieces required some trimming to fit the new wires and cylinder. 4. The video shows the box mounting directly though the removable carpet mat. (Not a good thing) I removed the mat prior to install and will have to modify it to reinstall. 5. All the wiring in the engine compartment and the plug was fairly straight forward and simple. It all appear to work as it should. Testing seemed to work good. I recommend making a new installation video. When I ordered it, the Amazon price was lower and etrailer couldn’t match the pricing. Two weeks later the pricing dropped to match the amazon price ( lower by $150). Sad face.. 2014 CRV Baseplate -Roadmaster 521567-5 The installation was fairly simple and the video explained it well. The bumper and grille were fairly difficult to remove and expect to break some of the clips. ( new yellow ones can be purchased on Amazon) . I would wait to replace the grille until all the plug wiring is complete. Just hind site. 2014 Honda CRV Brake switch relay. -Roadmaster 88400 Relay switch are really simple to install, but the location of the brake switch and the small wires made it really difficult. But it works as it should

I am a proficient DIYer (and was an auto mechanic many years ago). The installation took a lot of time - perhaps 8-10 hours for the brake controller. The most special tool needed was a rotary cutter (e.g., a Dremel tool). A cordless impact driver was also very helpful, especially with the self tapping screws. Getting the pully in the perfect position under the brake pedal took some trial-and-error to get perfect. Also, the included bolts for the brake pedal bracket where too short to accommodate the width of the brake lever - easily remedied with slightly longer standard bolts. Be very mindful of what is on the other side of the sheet metal you are planning to drill into. The brake supplemental vacuum system was a bit of a challenge, as the instructions are very vague regarding how to mount, and the space I had to work with was surprisingly tight. I ended up creating a mount on the inside front fender, and bolting the pump to that. Also, tapping into the vacuum lines took a couple of tries to get a leak-free connection. Think ahead about this, and be prepared to get a few small parts like hose clamps or right-angle hose connectors. This would be a potential consideration for any vacuum boost added on any vacuum power-assist application with any controller. I mounted the Brakebuddy main unit under the rear seat - that was a perfect location, and much better than the often suggested location under the driver's seat. I was very pleased with the installation result. I paired this with a Nighthawk tow bar. Be warned that the tow bar's included cable will not be compatible with the Stealth, as the Brakebuddy uses a proprietary connection at the towed vehicle. The upside of this proprietary connector is that all connections are build in, including the brake away cable and the battery charging line. (I modified the Nighthawk by replacing the included cable with a 4-pin cable to power the lighting system on the bar. This is just for extra safety and cool looks - I could have just not used the tow bar's included cable). With 1,200 miles of towing behind us, I can say I am very pleased with the performance. I rarely notice any difference in braking effort or effectiveness - which is a big advantage for a proportional system. My favorite feature is the ease and speed of connecting or disconnecting the towed vehicle. I'd give this a 4.5 stars out of five if I could, because I did need to add a few parts and make a couple trips to the hardware store to complete the installation. However, the excellent performance and ease of use once installed more than makes up for the inconvenience during initial installation. Special appreciation to the people at eTrailer, especially Nicole T, who provided support and guidance from pre-sales to installation. Also, I called Brakebuddy's support line with a concern, and they immediately picked up the line, addressed my question, and offered to immediately ship any parts if needed.

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I choose the Brake Buddy Stealth for my 2021 Jeep Wrangler because I wanted a “stay in place” brake system and felt it would be a clean looking installation. I finished the toad side of the installation today and thought I’d leave some notes on what turned out to be a bigger project than I’d anticipated. Again, this is my experience on the 2021 Jeep Wrangler 2-door. Your experience on other vehicles may vary. I started this install after installing a Demco Tabless Base Plate. Right out of the blocks, there’s really no convenient location to mount the cable connector to the Demco baseplate. I chose to mount it to under side of the bumper on the driver’s side. To provide clearance and a route for the wires, I had to cut a notch into the plastic air dam. I used one of the already screw screw holes and used self tapping screws in the other three locations. For added strength I epoxied the connector to the bumper as well. Since the bumper would be unremovable if the connector were hardwired, I added a waterproof connector. The kit is stingy with wire lengths, so I substituted my own wire. The Stealth unit itself i mounted beneath the driver’s seat. Don’t be fooled into believing there is clearance when testing with the driver’s seat positioned for rear seat access. Once the seat is returned to normal operation it lowers a bit and the box keeps the seat from being move forehand aft. I solved the problem by installing 5/8” thick nylon washers under the rear end of the seat slides. I also cut away a bit of the carpet under the front, inboard corner of the box. You will need to remove the driver’s seat in order to attach the front screws of the box. Be sure to disconnect and isolate the neutral battery terminals to prevent inadvertent air bag discharge. After removing the interior trim from the A-pillar, the door sill, and the driver side foot well, The wiring and cable tucked nicely away along with the OEM wiring and wiring for my taillights. I mounted the pulley horizontally behind the brake pedal. Installing the vacuum pump was my biggest worry and challenge. Instructions are to zip tie it “somewhere”. That seemed pretty casual for a safety system. I chose, instead, to fabricate an aluminum bracket that attaches to the lip of the engine compartment and to the wheel well (this latter attachment point is necessary to keep the pump from vibrating). Finally, the kit comes with 3/8” fittings to tap into the brake booster vacuum lines. The Jeep, however, uses 8mm nylon tubing. Brake Buddy, via etrailer.com, stated that the tubing would stretch and all would be good. Again, this felt casual for a safety system. Instead, I purchased an 8mm check valve and a 8-6-8mm barbed tee through Another online retailer to do the job right. I had to heat the Jeep tubing to fit even the 8mm tee, so the is no way the larger 3/8” fittings would have worked. See photo of my finished vacuum line installation. Bottom line, it was a POA install, but looks great. Hopefully it will stop the Jeep when towing. I’ll find out soon. :D

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It took me awhile to figure out how to set it up in my "Tiny Jeep" (TJ). I finally tried flipping the bracket for the brake pedal upside down, and that moved the connecting bracket forward just enough to where the shaft fit in the bracket. Used it once, about a month ago, and couldn't even tell the Jeep was connected to the motorhome. The tow vehicle is a 2023 Tiffin Wayfarer. The tow is a 2003 Jeep Wrangler TJ.

Had a problem with the connection to the unit but called etrailer and they sent me a new one after sending the other back to them. The hole process very painless and the the staff at etrailer was great to work with. Thank you etrailer for your great response.

Installing on 2020 Jeep Trailhawk : Pic #0557 : Roadmaster Base Plate Kit , Demco Supplemental Braking System , Diode Wiring Kit , Demco Battery Charge Wire Kit Pic # 0548 ,0551 , 0559 Had to adjust the bracket plate to line up with the upper bolt holes Pic #6028 finished install , mounted the operating unit to the top fuse box cover using automotive Velcro . Air cylinder , controller and LED light installed . Aside from the base plate bracket not lining up with the upper bolt holes I would give it 4 stars . My son in law is a master at solving mechanical issues .

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Evidently Roadmaster had made some slight alterations from the depiction, for the better. The fuse wiring was a spade end with two fuse holders built in. The holder closest to the spades was for the original circuit and the other for the new circuit. This was very handy. I had watched the installation video and thought it would be fairly easy; therefore I attached the terminals to the green, black, and white wires before even going to the CR-V. I did however purchase different spade connectors as I thought I may want to remove the brake relay switch in the future for another vehicle should I trade. Also the yellow connector is quite large and the video showed bending the wire over itself so that it would hold on the smaller wires. This was a wise decision. What was the problem was the wiring in my CR-V. The video showed similar size wiring from the brake switch. What I found was smaller wire, loomed very close to the brake switch. Evidently Honda had made some modifications. I believe the wire was 22 gauge and there was no real way the blue or yellow connectors would have worked. That said, after disconnecting from the switch, stripping the loom back to get some exposed wiring, cutting and using the 22-16 gauge connectors, drilling a hole for the ground screw, etc. the switch worked perfectly. I did vary the fuse location from the 7.5 Amp #29 Occupant Detection System (ODS) to the 15 Amp #28 Washer as I figured it would less likely interfere with any operation.

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There is a design flaw with the connection cable. I pulled a tow car 10000 miles last year and had repeated disconnects from the brake buddy. I called for support and was told to use a small flat blade screw driver to spread the connection pins to keep the plugs in place. Im assuming this design flaw was known but put into production anyway by the answer given. This is my third break buddy and thy have made improvements but the old ones have worked flawless for me in the past.

I purchased this BB Classic 3 in October 2020 after my old BB Classic that I purchased in 2008 failed to hold pressure for the piston. I bought this for my 2017 Jeep Wrangler but due to (1) the depth and unevenness of the driver's floor board, (2) the seat adjustment bar prevents BB Classic 3 from pushing against the seat and (3) the adjustable legs are not long enough to reach the seat and brake pedal properly, the BB Classic 3 fails the auto start test every time due to not being able to level. I talked to Hopkins MFG techs several times trying to resolve the issue (wiring checks, power cord checks, etc.) but to no avail. This situation makes the BB Classic 3 dangerous to have in service because not being level it will think something is wrong and keeps the brake applied (piston will not retract after applying the brake). So after talking to other Jeep Wrangler owners I determined that a platform was needed for the floor board on which the BB Classic 3 could rest. I constructed a platform that was approximately 3" off the floor board and rested on the floor board under the seat and on risers toward the brake pedal. This platform is level on the floor board both length-wise and width-wise. After placing the BB Classic 3 on the platform with clevis and power cord installed and legs in the lowest position, I tested the auto start and had 8 successful tests in a row!!! Also the brake away test was successful too. I still need to make a short drive test while in tow behind the motorhome. Hopkins really needs to advise customers that the Classic 3 will not work properly as is on a 2017 Jeep Wrangler due to the configuration of the driver's side floor board.

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I mounted this in a 2014 Chevy Spark. Finding a spot for the main control unit was interesting, but I found a video for a 2017 Spark that I could use. I did have to drill an extra hole in the mounting flange and car. I haven't taken it on a trip as of this time, but a tow around the block indicated it was working. One note, watch about placing the LED indicator behind the tinted part of the toad window. It makes it harder to see from the camper camera.

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I installed the Stay n play on a 2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. I pull it with a Diesel Sprinter, and braking control is very important to me. Previously I used a Brake Buddy. The Demco system is a world of difference. The proportional braking, simplicity of design, ease of engagement/disengagement, and reliability have provided an improved sense of confidence and security when flat towing. Installation was a challenge but is well described in instructions and videos.

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Kit fits great! Hooked up a 2004 Workhorse to a 2002 Jeep Liberty. It might be preferable to be handy with some advanced mechanical skills and tools to install this efficiently. Directions are great but you do need to figure out your own locations for certain items like the break-away reservoir, compressor, routing lines and wires out of harms way, but not bad at all. Parts are great, everything there but added a couple different wiring splices of my own.

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Your customer service leaves nothing lacking, and this follow-up from you is so out of character for the many web sites I have purchased from over the years. I am impressed by you and your company. I bought the tow bar and the brake system for my Equinox, and installed them my self (I am 70 years old) - and with your provided instructions and video, I had no problems (even though I was surprised by the number of parts and detail that went into the assemblies). Both systems have worked very well, with no problems. I am completely satisfied with them, and have told my friends and traveling acquaintances about your company. Thanks for your follow-up!

So I never used mine. This is for those trying to decide if they need one. I tow an F250 with a 43’ tag axle, with an 8.9l Cummings. Yes I can feel the truck back there but I have never had the need for additional braking. Crossing the Snoqualmie pass on I-90 or driving through the cascades, I have no problems slowing with the engine brake. I have a big rig and tow a big truck so if this is your set up I’d give it a shot before committing to such an expensive item that I never use. I’m sure smaller rigs pulling larger trucks will benefit from a device like this.

Ordering was easy. Delivered very promptly. Actually cheaper then what the manufacturer sells it for. Live near manufacturer and having them install all my flat towing components this month. Great service Etrailer!!

The product shipped on time and has been worry free. etrailer gets 5 stars for customer service every time I order from them.

This braking system does what it's suppose to do, smooth proportional braking between motorhome air brakes and the tow vehicle. The only reason I did not rate at 5 stars is that there is a slight misalignment of air cylinder mounting bracket and 2022 Jeep Gladiator brake pedal.

I installed this system in a 2023 2 door Wrangler. I also used an etrailer base plate and etrailer tow bar. I had originally purchased a Demco Delta Force Braking System. However, with the shape of the floor in the Jeep I was unable to use this unit. There are various places to install the stay n play duo in the Wrangler and the etrailer installation videos show this. I elected to install mine under the drivers seat as I wanted to keep it out of the elements. I fabricated a sheet metal bracket to mount it on that allows the rear seat heater duct to function unimpeded. Once installed the unit is out of sight and very simple to use. Just a flip of the toggle switch and its ready. I only needed to make a few adjustments to have it brake the way jeep the way I wanted. This is also a very simple procedure. I highly recommend this unit and appreciate all of the information etrailer has on their site to aid in the procurement and installation of their products.

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eTrailer was very helpful in choosing the correct hitch for our rv and car. They also provided a special brake application in the car that makes it super easy for toad braking. I am 72, and I hook up this toad and pull it with confidence. The instructions to hook up the toad was presented with ease. They knew exactly what they were doing, and we didn't rush through the demonstration. I would recommend eTrailer to anyone.

Overall a great system, there are some intricacies to the install as it pertains to old instructions with LED light in the TOAD vs. CoachLink Wireless and also the 3 wire reed switch vs. the newer 2 wire one. But using the provided written instructions along with YouTube videos you can figure it out. My other challenge was my Jeep is a 392 model and thus the battery and fuse box are in swapped locations, as well as a different VAC line layout, but again you can figure it out…just takes some time to study and trace the routing. My only real complaint was ordering, I was quoted the wrong system for my RV (Stay and Play) vs. AF1 since I DO have air brakes. etrailer was helpful in getting the return process but wants to charge me the shipping and possibly restock fee, I am working with them on this and hope to get a good resolution.

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The Air Force One Braking system just arrived. I opened the box and looked it all over. No damage to anything thanks to good packing. A friend of mine has this same braking system and he loves it. Can't give a product review because it's not installed yet but I can honestly say Dianna A in customer service helped me get my order correct.